Daily Power is a work in progress but boost is at 3500mbar and fuel is flowing at 130mm3 so it should be good for a solid 800NM+ as a daily driver 🙂 #noSmokenoPoke
- Base Model: 2008 159 TI 2.4 JTDM QTRONIC (Diesel)
- Base Power: 200bhp / 400nm @ the flywheel
- Dyno Power: 317WHP / 793NM @ front wheels (with Water/Meth 500cc) @ 3200mbar
- Daily Power: TBC WHP / TBC NM @ front wheels (with Water/Meth 1000cc) @ 3500mbar
The run above had a faulty water/meth controller which is why its a little jumpy!
Old Dyno Runs of when it was around 250bhp:
- Dyno run 1
- Dyno run 2
- Dyno run 3
- Dyno run 3 alternative angle
- Dyno run 4
- Dyno run 4 alternative angle
- Blow back Recirculation Breather System re-routed to exhaust via E-Vac Scavenger and one way morroso valve
- Swirl Valves fully blanked in the Manifold
- Straight through Wizard exhaust with no CAT's, no DPF and no mufflers on 4″ tails
- 600 x 300 x 76mm core High Flow, Front Mounted Inter-cooler with custom pipework and mounts
- 18 row Mocal oil cooler (235mm)
- Hybrid GTB2056 Turbo (BMW 530D Gt22 Turbine conversion, 62mm Extended tip billet Compressor Wheel with 4mm extended tips and 49.60mm inducer “62 trim”, Blueprinted, staggered gap oil seals on exhaust side, 15 degree cutback / clipped turbine wheel and 63mm custom intake adapter)
- 4bar TMAP sensor
- 80mm BMC CDA direct to turbo on custom 2ft pipe run for maximum de-restriction
- Water Methanol System (AEM Pump & 1000cc/min nozzle + Devils Own 100psi/7bar Progressive Controller)
- Inline OIL sensor reservoirs on Engine and Gearbox
- Inline Mocal thermostatic control valve on gearbox oil cooler
- All ECU Mapping work courtesy of Jacekowski and Jabawoki.
- 255/40/19 Vredestein ULTRAC Vorti Tyres
- Spacers on wheels to stance / prevent rub!
- Autolusso Braided Brake Lines
- Performance Friction Brake Pads @ Front
- EBC Yellow Brake Pads @ Rear
- MTEC Groved, Vented & Dimpled Discs with Black Treatment all round
- ATE TYP200 Racing Brake Fluid
- Bilstein B12 Pro Suspension Kit (B6 Shocks & Eibach Springs)
- Powerflex Front Upper and Lower Bushes
- Modified upper arms with greese nipples
- New 330mm Brembo calipers
- H7 LED's for Driving & Main Beam including custom dust caps
- Full External LED Conversion
- Full Internal LED Conversion
- Cylon High Level LED brake light
- Project Halo – Tri-Halo DRL Conversion
- 16v 83.333F Super Capacitor Bank on primary electrical system
- 230v AC Socket in Glovebox
- Twin Digital Temp Gauge (Engine and Gearbox Oil) in air vent mount
- secondary fused distribution boxes under dash and in engine bay for ancillaries
- All wiring and ancillary systems wrapped to look stock.
- Gearbox Radiator Cooling System
- 100Amp Shunt and Volt / Ammeter from Capacitor Bank to Battery
- Multiple 2.2amp USB sockets and feeds for general convenience!
- Under Bonnet Temperature Sensor / Gauge
- Custom Sub Enclosure with 12″ Infinity KAPPA Perfect 12VQ M3D Sub
- Fully Soundproofed
- Modified Alpine MRV-T420 Amplifier
- Custom Wiring
- Pioneer AVH-X5700DAB
- FM/AM/DAB+/GPS Aerial Mod
- Fog Lights removed from front bumper and re-grilled for greater air flow to additional radiators
- Latest Gen Badges all round
- Some stickers:
- Cloverleafs …because race car.
- Nurembergring Sticker …because she's been 🙂
- “Built Not Bought” …because she is.
9 Replies to “Alfa 159 Ti”
Please can you tell me what size’s the halo led rings are?
And where to buy the correct size to fit my
2006 alfa romeo 159 2.4 jtdm.
All information related to the Halo Project is located on http://projects.jabawoki.com
Some excellent work there, I’m looking at changing my boost gauge in the dash any tips you have would be appreciated?
I have seen people do it but to make it look factory its not easy. Also the current gauge is electronic so switching it for a high reading pressure activated one is a pain. That said because it is electronic you can simply adjust the scale it reads in the ECU during the remap process so that its max reading is your new, higher max pressure. so while the numbers don’t add up anymore on the gauge it does tally with the actual boost 🙂
Wow fantastic job!
I was wondering why you leave the MAF sensor in the intake and not choosing for a delete. Did you upgraded it or is the stock one?
The stock MAF can flow more than enough air for large turbo’s, spooling one up with the gas from 5cyl’s is your biggest problem. There really is no need to mess with it unless you are changing pistons, rods, bearings and studs which won’t help anyway as your head will crack above 3.75bar absolute pressure, so you would also need a custom machined billet head, valvetrain, cams etc.
Take my advice, keep absolute pressure under 3.75bar, ideally below 3.5bar, so if you want to have more than a few thousand miles per head, stay under that 🙂
Thanks for responding so nicely.
I have another question. I saw that you have installed an evac scavenger. Did you see any benefit on this solution? I vent to atmosfere (2.0 JTDM) and for now i don’t have any issue for now like a lot of people say, but if I will go to vent into the exhaust, what tipe of benefit I will achive?
Venting to atmosphere, or the exhaust via an e-vac scavenger setup, achieves the exact same outcome. No oil in the intake. The benefit of you switching from one to the other is negligible.
I know this was from a while ago but would be interested to know how you went out fitting your aftermarket oil cooler
(18 row Mocal oil cooler (235mm))
Did you get some adapters made for the standard pipes? TIA