Welcome to my digital home! There are lots of articles you might find helpful buried in this site on topics such as modifying an Alfa Romeo 159, rebuilding a Lotus 7 (Robin Hood 2B), not to mention a ton of stuff on technology in general. It's all here somewhere, so use the search function or navigate using the menu structure. if you want to talk, reach out via the contact function, I usually do answer!
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InfoSecWhich Penetration Testing Qualification is best from a client perspective:
Which Penetration Testing Qualification is best from a Testing perspective:
(NB: I have deliberately excluded “accreditation schemes” such as CREST and CHECK)Related Images: [...]
GeneralWell, its been a while, but after nearly a full year of ownership I thought I would share my thoughts……..
I bought a pair of rokit rp6g2 Limited Edition (Yellow) speakers nearly a year ago now and after a lot of use I can confirm they are truly an awesome sounding set of speakers. The honesty of the reproduction is not sacrificed to provide a “decent” sound from multiple digital sources. In fact, they sound just as good playing an Mp3 encoded at 192Kbps as they do outputting a raw track from ableton, yet do not loose the accuracy or quality required to pick out the levels and sound scape….. truly an accomplishment.
The acoustics of your room is of course a variable…. I had them initially in a small room and that increased the low frequency response ten fold, vs now, when I have them in a much larger room, where the bass is sacrificed somewhat, but not to the extent that its a problem I might add. If money was no object (and they are on my Christmas list), the icing on the cake for these speakers is clearly a KRK 10S and the acclaimed ERGO system. The addition of these items would make the overall sound from this configuration truly something to be reckoned with.
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GeneralSo many people use the term “Digital dj” and rely on CDJ's to make them sound good. Personally, if you can't make Vinyl work, you need to go back to basics and earn your stripes.
Don't get me wrong, i understand the simplicity of the CDJ's and the obvious sound benefits of CD, but they are just too clinical.
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LiveMixesOldschool hard house from the archives
https://jabawoki.com/wp-content/mp3/Jabawoki_16022001_Euphoric_Hard_House.mp3
Podcast: Play in new window | Download
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Alfa 159Once the car was pepped and ready it was onto the enclosure build. This was a combination of trial and error mixed with some loose calculations and estimations around box size. I had worked out utilising box design software that for my sub, a 0.6 cuft sealed enclosure was going to give me good responsive SQ and enough power. This also suited my limited boot incursion requirements so was ideal.
I also wanted the amp to be located as part of the enclosure and with the heat-sink visible to aid in cooling. The end result was to have something that looked as close to built by designed as I could achieve without a lot of fibreglass and pain!
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Alfa 159I finally got round to installing the Wireless OBD II dongle I bought off ebay into my car the other day and thought I would document the process for those that may be interested.
First your going to need to pick one up. I bought a clone Kiwi Wifi dongle off ebay for £45 which is a third of the cost of an original branded version so a complete bargain! Its a great little unit and perfect for interfacing with any OBD application you may want it for. Once you get the unit delivered you will notice that it is a simple plug and play job with no configuration. While this is true in its simplest form, one slight issue I found is that the OBD port is always powered up, therefore you would have to plug it in and remove it when you were not using it or it would always be broadcasting direct access to your cars ECU via a wireless network, which in my book is not the best of ideas!
So the first job you have is to retro-fit an on off switch to allow for a more permanent installation! Its an easy job and Maplin have micro 12v switches that will fit and do the job well for a few pence. Just slide your fingernails around the edge of the front plastic cover and it will literally pop off in your hands, giving you access to the internals. All you need to do is de-solder the power connection (trace pin 16 on the connector), add a new bit of wire from the board to your switch and back to the original wire where you can splice it back together. To do this nicely you need about 12cm of wire, 2cm of heat shrink wrap, a soldering iron & solder & a small switch.
Fit the switch on the side of the unit for easy access and put the cover back on with a dab of glue to hold it in place.
Here is an image of my modified unit.
Once the unit is installed in the car, you can connect it to your chosen application which for me was Rev2 from Dev Toaster on the iphone. This app is a bit pricey at £26 for the pro version, but gives me everything I want in terms of access to key metrics in real time, full data logging and even engine code interrogation and resetting! It can get data on a large number of points including:
Vehicle Speed
RPM
Fuel Consumption
Engine Coolant Temp
Fuel Pressure
Calculated Engine Load
Throttle Position
Intake Manifold Pressure
Air Intake Temp
Timing Advance
Mass Air Flow
Fuel Level
Barometric Pressure
EVAP System Vapor Pressure
Fuel Trim
Boost
Examples:
In terms of the actual connection between the iphone and the OBD II dongle, its as simple as:
Connect the OBD II and power on
Go to settings > wifi on the iPhone
press the arrow next to “CLKDevices” network
Set a static IP of192.168.0.11 & netmask of 255.255.255.0, save and exit
Open Rev2, go to settings, hardware choose Kiwi Wifi, then select custom from the bottom
Set the device to 192.168.0.10 and port of 35000
Done.
From this point your up and running!
You do need to configure a profile for your car, with its kerb weight as this is used to calculate torque and BHP. My kerb weight is documented at 1680KG, but I have the top spec TI version with all the extra trimmings so expect it to be closer to 1750KG. I am of course excluding the 75KGs of lard I personally add to the equation, but I think thats fair! I will actually get it weighed at some point just to be pedantic, but for now 1750kg's is close enough for me.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NWvbQ1RdHCo
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LiveMixesOldschool hard house from the archives
https://jabawoki.com/wp-content/mp3/Jabawoki_06052002_HardTrance.mp3
Podcast: Play in new window | Download
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rh2b Build DiaryIn the dash of the hoody was a previously installed large cubby holder. This had been damaged at some point and one of the previous owners had used a stick on faux leather pocket to hide the damage. As you can guess, this was not going to do for me and I thought I would put my 3d printer to good use and make something a little more useful!
Aside from the damaged cubby, I had a few cables dangling in the passenger foot well that I needed to do something with. Firstly I had the CTEK charge cable that I added for ease of keeping the battery tip top, then I had the ECU programming cable that I also needed to be able to easily access. Both of these needed a new home and they needed to be out of the way of a passengers feet!
CTEK Charge Point
The combination of broken plastic part + need to tidy cables & access to a 3D printer led me straight to Fusion 360 where I set about designing a new solution. The first design was an “all in one” unit that had to be printed with lots of supports and with the rear face on the bed. This left a less than desirable finish and was simply not going to do. This led me to my first “multi-part” design and print.
Utilizing Fusions component feature I was able to design the face and all parts that connect to it as separate objects that could then be printed individually. In total the final design had 4 parts. A face, a cubby, a light box and a lens. Yes, that's right, I added LED's 🙂 The idea was to have the lotus Super 7 logo as well as the letters GBS (Great British Sportscars) cut through the face and an LED behind them so that it illuminated when the ignition was on.
Printed Parts for the final cubby
The face I decided to paint, which is a first for me, but I thought given it was on display and a large flat area, it could benefit from some paint. I used Plasti-Kote primer and black satin paint after some light sanding and the finish was truly impressive.
Once all the components were ready for assembly, I installed a small strip of 12v LED's into the light box and painted the clear PLA diffuser lens in the same body paint that the car is painted in. This actually turned out better than I hoped for and was a very easy thing to do.
Light box and LEDs
The final product looks pretty cool and holds the parts I needed it to perfectly. Everything is neat and there is a more functional, better looking solution to a problem that was part my own doing and part legacy 🙂
Final Part Assembled
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InfoSecSo I finally got round to sorting out the heat issues associated with running the 1W alfa at full power for extended periods of time. It was a simple hardware mod that cost next to nothing to do and it means I can run higher power for longer, which is useful 🙂
Ok, so starting from the top….. Your going to need an ALFA USB RT8178 external Wireless adapter, rated at 1W. You want the 1W one not the 2W or N spec etc ones as they are different chip sets and the best chip set for wifi pwnage is the 8187 🙂
Once you have your trusty ALFA card your going to want to overclock its power to make it see where other cards cannot. That is as simple as typing:
ifconfig wlan0 down
iw reg set BO
ifconfig wlan0 up
iwconfig wlan0 txpower 30
Once you have full power enabled however, your going to start running into problems unless you modify the hardware as well. That's where this guide comes in!
What you will need:
ALFA USB RT8187 Adapter
Small chip Heat sinks from Maplin or elsewhere
3M Heat sink double sided sticky pads
Super Glue
Dremil
Sharp craft knife
To start, you need to crack open the unit. It just pops open, but I found that it snapped the clips that hold it together when I did it so you need to be careful or be prepared to super glue it back together.
Once you have it all open and ready to go clean up the chip and the heat sinks with some heat sink paste solvent and heat sink surface prep.
Once that's done, cut a piece of the heat sink tape to size and attach it to the heat sink.
Then just attach it to the chip and your set for fabrication to commence!
No for the tricky bit. Using your dremil and knife, cut a hole for the heat sink in the face of the case. Its tricky, and mine didn't come out great, but it was good enough and function over form is good for me on this one!
Now your all set, you can run your ALFA at full power, injecting and sniffing to your hearts content without burning it out.
Enjoy!
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InfoSecOpen post to see coverage:
Computer Fraud and Security – February 2009 – Ethics & hacking
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